Quiet luxury is in full flow, so it’s no wonder Mario Arena’s runway debut for Joseph was brimming with long, swooshing coats and capes, oversized knits and logo-free handbags – some so big they could have housed a long weekend’s wardrobe.
The designer is also repositioning Joseph in the luxury space, so there was also great attention to craft and detail as in the feathery fringe scattered across the front of knits and skirt suits, and the molten gold belt buckles and chunky bracelets, part of a new jewelry and accessories offer.
Arena said he was inspired by “the skill of sculpture,” and the impulse to create “softness and lightness in mediums that are flat.”
The simplest, most sculptural pieces stole the show. They included floor-length coats in fluid herringbone, or cream wool with fluffy cuffs. Long capes and cape coats in olive and burgundy compounded the drama, and added subtle Victorian flair to this elegant collection.
Knits were statement-making, especially a oversized white, double roll-neck sweater, which Arena paired with aviator sunglasses and a gold shoulder bag – a paparazzi-ready look – and the lineup of chunky, off-the-shoulder and wrapped cardigans.
Going forward, these simpler looks will be the winners for Arena, who should embrace the Joseph DNA, the luxe staples, and dependable daywear rather than go for sparkle, fringe and too much gold. The quieter, the better.
